Noises from my Model D

[DuffyF56]

Just got my Model D last month. For the last couple of days I have begin to notice some noise coming from what appears to be the area where the chain enters the opening of the base assembly. I would describe this as a squeaking noise when the chain is being retracted or extended from the housing. I don't have 50 hours on the machine yet but bought it from Rogue Fitness so I have no idea how many meters were put on it before resold to me. I have about 140K meters on it since I bought it. Suggestions?

[DuffyF56]

I did oil the chain in case someone was going to suggest it. It also allowed me the chance to better determine where the noise seems to be coming from. The chain appeared to have oil on it before I re-oiled it. There was some dirt on the towel after I wiped the chain down with an oiled paper towel. It appears the noise may be coming from the idler pulley area. It definitely occurs as the chain is withdrawn or allowed to retract into machine. Is this normal and something not to worry about? There does not appear to be any undo drag on the chain and it retracts normally albeit with the noise as described.

[raotor]

Hi,

Out of interest, have you checked the lifetime metres figure stored in your PM? Assuming, of course, that the PM wasn't reset before you purchased it, it should give you an idea of how many metres were on the machine before you got it (Subtracting your 140K total rowed from that figure of course).


Regards

Steve

[C2Trevor]

It’s possible that the squeaking noise is coming from one or both of the chain idler pulleys (they are the clear urethane pulleys inside the machine that the chain runs over). We’ve seen several instances where the pulley can bind against the axle just enough to vibrate and cause a sort of squeak or groan at certain speeds. We have found that lubricating the pulley fixes the problem. Apply some chain oil to the inside of the bronze bushings in the pulleys. The pulley that is on the axle shaft right beneath the flywheel axle is a little tricky because the pulley has plastic spacers on either side of it, so you’ve got to find a way to shoot the oil into a small space.

If you find that this does not fix the problem, or it only fixes the problem temporarily, give us a call or shoot us an email.

Trevor

[DuffyF56]

I checked the Lifetime reading and see about 141K meters which is about what I put on the machine(I did not log my warm-up and cool-downs at first then figured what the heck and started to do so.) I upgraded to a PM4 so I guess that makes sense it would not show actual meters on the machine. But based on the condition of the rail, there was VERY little in the way of marks showing when I got it, I am assuming it was near new when received.

Since I have not delved into the construction/assembly drawings much, can I assume it is OK to remove the end cap from the angled portion of the frame to gain access to at least the upper idler pulley? Looking at this again and listening closely it appears the noise is coming from this pulley.

[Ergmeister]

I've had Ergs that will squeak from the weight of the user running seat on the rail. With the handle fully retracted, come up to full compression and extend your arms and work as if you were holding the handle but leave the handle retracted and don't touch it. Now extend back and return to full compression in your "normal" rowing approach. Is it still squeaking without the chain moving? If the answer is yes, then disconnect the rail from the head and clean and then apply a little silicone spray lubricant to the saddle where the metal bar catches the tail rail assembly, and to the nose of the rail that nests into the metal bar on the top just below the snap clip. I've had Ergs that will squeak from plastic on plastic rubbing from the normal flex of a user sliding back and forth. Sounds like its coming from the pulley but actually its the nose of the rail slightly flexing and rubbing the plastic receiver of the head assembly.

If not, then the pulley MAY be the issue. My money's on the tail to head assembly connection and a quick slide routine with the handle parked will confirm that.

[DuffyF56]

Thanks for the suggestion but standing, not sitting on the machine at all I can cause the noise from withdrawing or allowing the chain to retract on the machine so it is definately not coming from the seat or seat rollers.

[DuffyF56]

Again.....Looking now at the assembly manual and schematic it still isn't clear to me if I can remove the end cap of the slanted rail section to access the idler pulleys without disturbing internal parts that might be secured to or with the end cap. Is it possible to remove this cap safely without causing other problems?

[Slothful1]

If you're referring to the long rectangular clear plastic panel on the bottom of the slanted section, then yes you can safely remove that to access the moving parts. It should slide out easily once you've bent it a bit to free the piece that sticks out.

Dave

[Carl Watts]

The only squeaking I had was from the chain guide rollers inside the frame, but this was on a higher milage Model C. The rollers are plain bronze bearings but really they still need lubrication from time to time or they can cease completley. There has been examples of the chain cutting right through them and down to the bolt. I lubricate mine with some full sythetic 10W-60 engine oil. They are supplied dry out of the factory so I even oiled my brand new Model D when I got it.

You just slide that frame undercover out but you really need the oil in a syringe with a long tip on it to get the oil where it is required.

[DuffyF56]

Actually I was referring to the plastic frame end cap that is held on with a single screw (allen head) through the center of the cap. It seems to me that would be easier than messing with the plastic sheet material at the bottom of the frame rails assuming the end cap can be safely removed without disturbing internally mounted parts.

[Carl Watts]

The end cap doesn't get you into anything of use really. The plastic cover sides away from the cap end and is really only trapped in by the ends of some pertruting screws/threaded parts so you need no tools to remove this. All the internals are then visible for inspection.

[DuffyF56]

Fixed.....at least for now. Removed the end cap. Since I did not understand how it was attached the nut rolled down into the rail. Withdrew the plastic undercover sheet. recovered the nut. Oiled the bottom idler pulley. Could not get to the upper idler since I had nothing long enough to reach. Worked the chain and saw the problem was no longer present. Reinstalled lower plastic undercover sheet. Reinstalled the end cap. I suggest you place the end cap mounting bracket over the shock cord pulley shaft. Much easier to get it into place. The bracket is designed such that the nut can be tightened with out holding it (captured by the bracket itself) by turning the screw which secures the end cap to the rail. It has a curved end which slips partially around the pulley shaft and the opposite end is a right angle through which the screw for the end cap passes. Hope this helps others needing to access the internals.