Heaviestuser wrote:Damper level @8.
The damper lever position doesn't always match on each rower. The amount of crud and fluff in the flywheel cage can radically change the damping of the flywheel. (There's other factors like temperature and height above sea level - but that doesn't have much effect for me in the UK or for you in the Netherlands.)
So you'll find that folks on here don't talk about damper lever positions, rather they talk about drag factor. Drag factor (DF) is a number measured by the PM2/PM2+/PM3 or PM4 monitor on every stroke. The monitor uses that as part of the maths to calculate the pace for 500m. That combined with stroke rate gives your time to cover the 10K distance.
The PM will display the drag factor. You can use that number to configure two rowing machines to have an identical feel, by matching the drag factor numbers.
On a PM2/PM2+ (remove the HR interface if fitted), turn on the monitor and press [OK]+[REST] at the same time. Row six or seven big strokes to get the flywheel spinning and the DF will be displayed in the lower right of the monitor (annotated with "drag").
On a PM3/PM4 choose More Options from the main menu then choose Display Drag Factor. Again row six or seven nice strong strokes to get the number.
On a clean, well maintained machine the DF should range from about 95 (damper 1) to 210 (damper 10). The worst I've ever seen was DF 109 on damper 10 (the cruddy old model C machine in the Basingstoke Hilton Hotel).
I usually row on 120 df. (That was damper 3 on the model C I was using today.) A drag factor somewhere from 115 to 135 will suit most folks. It's completly your choice. The only, normal, rule is that in competitions once the drag is set it can't be adjusted during the race. The higher drag tends to push the focus of your rowing from legs to more arms, which isn't a good thing unless you're rowing a short course (100m or 300m) sprint.
On a clean machine damper 8 is too high for most folks. Having it that high tends to point to troubles with your technique.