New Rollers: Best Investment Ever!

[David Pomerantz]

I’ve got about 4 years/6million meters on my rower. Was getting progressively frustrated with bumpy loud clicking ride and seat sticking during active rest. Even cleaning the rail meticulously wasn’t helping. Splurged $11 for new rollers; BEST INVESTMENT EVER! Between erring on the side of replacing rollers too early or too late, I recommend too early. Way smoother ride, like new erg!

Dave

[Carl Watts]

The standard Chinese metal shielded bearings that are used failed before my rollers. During one particularly hot summer and copious amounts of sweat I decided to stand the rower on its nose after use and when I came to use it again the seat bearings had seized. The best upgrade is to move to Japanese made rubber shielded 2RS bearings. The seat rollers themselves last forever with enough cleaning, I have never replaced them yet on my Model D or Model C and have over 16 million meters on them and counting. All the seat hardware that could be replaced with stainless steel fasteners and washers was also completed.

[edinborogh]

Tutorial please!

[Citroen]

Tutorial please!

Documentation is here: https://www.concept2.com/service/indoor ... schematics (don't need no stinking videos).

[edinborogh]

Tutorial please!

Documentation is here: https://www.concept2.com/service/indoor ... schematics (don't need no stinking videos).

Thanks!

[Ergmeister]

The new seat rollers are nearly 50% of the contact area of the previous style and clearly help a lot for smooth riding and less prone to build up.

I would agree that the seat roller bearings are not the quality of a swiss watch...or swiss bearing for that matter.

I just shot this image of the new (left) and old style rollers to show how dramatic the change is: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gVrgMWyCn7MSsZNy7

[jackarabit]

Replaced bearings only @ five yrs. and 14.4MM meters on the clock. Rollers were fine.

[Carl Watts]

No tutorial required really.

From memory the bearings required for the seat rollers are R6-2RS if you want them to last forever, a few stainless washers instead of steel and 4 stainless seat bolts with washers and split washers all in stainless.

The standard bolts through the bearings were unacceptable for me so I replaced them with Allen head shoulder bolts that have ground 3/8" shafts. a couple of extra washers are required as the shoulder extends through the holes in the angle seat mounts. The bolts have stainless nylocks. The seat mounts should have been made in stainless or at least nickel plated or something, mine got totaled when the sweat got through the paint so they were replaced.

Admittedly I should have got my huge fan years ago to reduce the level of sweat but things change, the rower is now in a far better ventilated position in the garage with a double garage door that goes up in the front and a back door directly behind the rower so the fan blows cool air from outside and then past me to out the back of the garage out the door and away. Probably the near perfect setup really, short of a massive room with full air conditioning and a huge fan.

[jackarabit]