Nomath wrote: ↑July 17th, 2021, 6:30 am
Hence the drive time 'seen' by the flywheel/PM/ErgData is significantly shorter than the drive executed by the athlete. Also the drive length will be shorter ; the drive speed displayed by ErgData will be higher. Correspondingly the duration of the recovery is significantly overestimated by ErgData.
I've been scouring your past posts from other threads. I work in QA for software development and I must say I'm very impressed by, and appreciative of, your recent work. If only I had more people like you on my team! I also fiddle with arduino boards quite a lot. I intend to follow up on that instructables link you provided to build my own performance monitor, just for the fun of it. But also perhaps to coax out new data to help me improve my erging in real time. But alas, my time is in high demand these days, so I imagine that project will have to jockey for position on my todo list for some time - at least if my wife has anything to say about it. (She will.)
In starting out on the erg, I've really wanted to focus on my form. I suppose rowing is like any other skill or instrument, where good foundations are always the best start, and a continual meditation. Ergo, the metronome. The hope is that my smart brain will trick my dumb body like Pavlov's dog or something, so that eventually anything other than the correct cadence will feel wrong. The metronome at full winding only lasts about 26 minutes, and my longer pieces are now 31+ minutes, so the last five minutes I'm forced to maintain my form and rating without the aid of the metronome, and that will only increase as I approach 10k and 12k days.
So far, this has worked pretty well. I tend to accidentally increase my pace when I switch focus onto my rate, but eventually things even out. On my logbook graphs you can't really tell where the metronome ended. But it really is like training wheels on a bike. Of course I won't have a metronome on the water, and even if I did my cadence would be better timed by the rest of the crew, not some timepiece. Some day I'll ditch the metronome altogether, only breaking it out a few times a year to return to fundamentals.
Similarly, I've considered marking my drive chain somehow, so that I'm not leaning forward at the catch. If the marking on the chain goes past the chain guide, I've gone too far. However, considering your research, a very slight lean might not be the worst thing for your form. The argument is that your shins should be vertical, with a straight back and no hunched shoulders, because this puts you in the most powerful position for the drive. But if the real work of that drive doesn't start for 17cm into the drive, then perhaps marking the chain 17cm (or whatever distance) from an ideal position would be best. It would be sort of like a violin teacher taping positions on the neck while you learn. Another sort of training wheel.
Nomath wrote:July 17th, 2021, 6:30 am
After giving your question some more thought, I think that it contains a basic flaw. The flaw is that you cannot increase the stroke rate without increasing the handle force. The chain drive mechanism implies that handle speed and handle force are not independent. Handle speed and rotation speed of the flywheel are coupled and a higher rotation speed implies a (much!) higher handle force.
Nomath wrote: ↑July 17th, 2021, 6:30 am
The figure also illustrates a point mentioned in my before-last post: a higher handle speed implies much higher handle force.
I'm sorry, I think I've confused myself. You're saying that it is flawed to believe that you cannot increase the stroke rate without increasing the handle force?
If the chain drive mechanism doesn't engage the clutch because the sprocket wheel never spins as fast as the flywheel, then the flywheel won't accelerate and therefore the PM won't even register the drive. It would be a 0 watt drive, so to speak. This would be possible if you pulled very hard to ramp the flywheel up to a high speed, set a low drag factor so it doesn't slow down too much, and then pulled slowly enough on the handle to keep the sprocket rotation speed low.
In this case the only resistance you'd feel on the handle is the return mechanism for the entire drive. The average force of the drive would need to be enough to slightly overcome this, but not enough to reach a speed that rotates the sprocket wheel as fast as the flywheel at any point in the flywheel deceleration.
But this scenario assumes you pull very hard and then very lightly. If you even out the pulls to be more regular for an already up to speed flywheel, then the only factor that remains is the drag factor. At a drag factor of zero (flywheel housing is a vacuum, perfect bearings, etc) your regular pulls will eventually result in every pull not registering on the PM. At a very large drag factor, the flywheel will necessarily slow to a point in the drive where you can't help but rotate the sprocket wheel faster, engaging the clutch an registering wattage.
If the rating is high enough, and the 1:2 ratio is enforced (or perhaps 1:3, what have you), then you may get squeezed so that in order to displace the handle in the allotted time of the drive, the sprocket rotation must necessarily match the ever decelerating flywheel.
Another consideration I've had is the return mechanism, which exerts a constant force opposite to the drive. It isn't much, about 1.25 kg at the storage hook for the handle, and 2 kg at the end of the slide, but it isn't zero. At least some part of the drive force has to be used to overcome the return mechanism. Is it accounted for in the work calculation, or is it like dust on the flywheel modifying it's moment of inertia - negligible?